Unlacquered Brass Double Curtain Rod — Solid Brass, Handmade
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Estimated delivery: Nov 02 - Nov 06
Unlacquered Brass Double Curtain Rod
A handmade double curtain rod in solid brass, left unlacquered so the metal is free to age. Two parallel rods on shared wall brackets let you hang a sheer behind and a heavier drape in front — soft daylight by day, full privacy by night, on one set of fixings.
Solid brass rings are included. This is solid brass throughout, not brass plating over steel or aluminium. The weight, the sound it makes when a ring slides, and the way it ages are all the material itself.
Key features
- Solid brass construction — not plated, not coated
- Unlacquered living finish that develops a natural patina over time
- Double configuration — two rods on common brackets for layered curtains
- Wall mounted brackets with a round, flat wall plate
- Ball finials on both ends of both rods
- 19 lengths from 12" to 96"
- Solid brass rings with fixed eyelets, for hanging with curtain hooks
- Handmade — small variations in tone and surface are part of the piece
Solid brass, left unlacquered
Most brass-look curtain hardware is a thin brass or gold-tone layer over a cheaper metal. That layer can chip, scratch through, or flake, and once it does the base metal shows. This rod has no coating to fail, because it is brass the whole way through.
Leaving it unlacquered is a deliberate choice. A lacquered rod is sealed under clear varnish, which holds the bright factory shine but eventually yellows, clouds or peels — and once lacquer begins to fail it cannot be repaired without stripping the whole piece.
How the patina develops
Unlacquered brass is a living finish. From the day it goes up, the surface reacts with air, humidity and the oils on your hands, and it begins to change.
- First weeks — the bright yellow softens and warms
- First months — deeper golds and browns appear, usually unevenly
- Over years — a rich, varied antique tone settles in
Areas you touch often stay brighter. Areas you rarely touch darken faster. Humid rooms age more quickly than dry ones. The result is uneven by nature, and that unevenness is the point — it is a record of the room the rod lives in.
If you prefer the brighter look, polishing returns it; the patina will simply begin again. Neither state is more correct than the other.
Suits layered window treatments
The double rod is designed for curtains hung in two layers. Typical pairings:
- A sheer or voile on the back rod with lined curtains on the front
- A light linen behind with a heavier woven drape in front
- A blackout layer behind with a decorative curtain in front
The rings have fixed eyelets rather than clips, so curtains hang from hooks. Pencil pleat, pinch pleat, goblet and other hook-based headings all work. Rod-pocket and tab-top curtains thread directly onto a rod and are not used with rings.
Warm, unlacquered brass sits naturally in period homes, reclaimed and vintage interiors, and warm minimal schemes. It reads as a material rather than a colour, which is why it rarely fights with the rest of a room.
Specifications
| Material | Solid brass |
| Finish | Unlacquered — raw, living finish |
| Configuration | Double — two parallel rods on shared brackets |
| Rod profile | Plain round tube |
| Finial style | Ball finial, both ends of both rods |
| Mounting | Wall mounted |
| Centre support bracket | Supplied on longer spans — the span at which it is required requires confirmation |
| Ceiling mounting | Requires confirmation |
| Ring attachment | Round ring with fixed eyelet, for curtain hooks |
| Rod outside diameter | Requires confirmation |
| Available lengths | 12" to 96" — 19 sizes, see the Length dropdown |
| Bracket projection — front rod | Requires confirmation |
| Bracket projection — back rod | Requires confirmation |
| Gap between rods | Requires confirmation |
| Bracket wall-plate diameter | Requires confirmation |
| Screw holes per bracket | Requires confirmation |
| Ring internal diameter | Requires confirmation |
| Ring outside diameter | Requires confirmation |
| Weight | Requires confirmation |
| Safe working load | Requires confirmation |
| Country of manufacture | Requires confirmation |
Sizes and options
| Option | Available choices |
|---|---|
| Length | 12", 18", 24", 30", 36", 42", 45", 48", 50", 54", 58", 60", 65", 70", 75", 80", 84", 90", 96" |
| Rod diameter | Requires confirmation |
| Custom / cut-to-length | Requires confirmation |
| Ring quantity | Rings included — quantity per length requires confirmation |
| Finial style | Ball finial — further options require confirmation |
What's included
| Item | Quantity supplied |
|---|---|
| Brass rods | Requires confirmation |
| Wall brackets | Requires confirmation |
| Ball finials | Requires confirmation |
| Solid brass curtain rings | Included — quantity per length requires confirmation |
| Screws and wall plugs | Requires confirmation |
Not included
- Curtains
- Curtain hooks — requires confirmation
- Additional rings beyond the set supplied — requires confirmation
- Additional or centre brackets — requires confirmation
How to measure
- Measure the window width across the opening, frame edge to frame edge.
- Add overhang on each side. Curtains need somewhere to sit when open, or they cover the glass and block light. Allow extra on both sides — more for heavy or full curtains, less for light sheers.
- Check what the rod has to clear. Measure from the wall to the front face of anything in the way: a deep sill, a radiator, shutters, a handle. The bracket must project far enough that curtains hang past it.
- Decide the height. Mounting above the frame rather than on it makes a window read taller. Measure from the floor up rather than from the frame, so the curtain hem lands where you want it.
- Measure the drop from the ring eyelet — not from the rod — to where the hem should finish. The rings and hooks add height above the curtain.
- Check the wall. Identify what you are fixing into before ordering, and find the studs or joists if there are any.
We offer 19 lengths from 12" to 96". If your measurement falls between two of them, message us before ordering rather than guessing.
How many curtain rings do you need?
For each panel, separately:
Rings = (panel hanging span ÷ ring spacing), rounded up, + 1
The extra ring is the one at the far end of the panel.
A common starting point is one ring every 6 inches (15 cm). Closer spacing of 4–5 inches gives deeper, more regular folds and suits heavy or lined fabric. Wider spacing of 7–8 inches suits light sheers.
A double rod carries two layers, so you need the quantity twice — once for the back rod and once for the front.
Worked example
This is an illustration of the method, not a specification of this product. It assumes 6 inch spacing, two panels meeting at the centre, and roughly 4 inches of the rod taken up by brackets and finials.
| Rod length | Panels | Hanging span per panel | Rings per panel | Total per tier | Total, both tiers |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 36" | 2 | 16 in | 4 | 8 | 16 |
| 48" | 2 | 22 in | 5 | 10 | 20 |
| 60" | 2 | 28 in | 6 | 12 | 24 |
| 70" | 2 | 33 in | 7 | 14 | 28 |
| 84" | 2 | 40 in | 8 | 16 | 32 |
| 96" | 2 | 46 in | 9 | 18 | 36 |
| 60" | 1 | 56 in | 11 | 11 | 22 |
Your curtain maker's heading requirements come first. Pinch-pleat curtains have a fixed number of pleats and need one ring per pleat plus one — the spacing is already decided by the fabric. The calculation above applies to pencil pleat and similar headings.
Installation
General guidance only. Bracket spacing, fixing types, drill sizes and load limits are not specified for this product — confirm them with us before you drill, and match all fixings to your own wall.
Tools
- Tape measure
- Spirit level or laser level
- Pencil
- Stud and pipe/cable detector
- Drill with bits suited to your wall type
- Screwdriver
- Step ladder
- Safety glasses
Steps
- Check behind the wall. Scan the full bracket line for cables, pipes and studs before marking anything.
- Mark the height. Decide how far above the window the rod sits, and mark that height at each end. Measure from the floor, not the frame — floors and frames are rarely level with each other.
- Mark the bracket positions. Hold a bracket at the first mark, level it, and mark through the screw holes. Repeat at the other end. On longer rods, mark the centre support bracket as well.
- Check alignment. Lay a level across both sets of marks before drilling. A rod reads as crooked long before it measures as crooked.
- Match the fixings to the wall. Timber stud takes woodscrews directly. Plasterboard needs the right hollow-wall anchor. Masonry needs plugs and a masonry bit. If you are not sure what you have, stop and ask a professional — the fixing, not the bracket, is what holds the weight.
- Drill and fit the brackets. Drill at the marks, fit any plugs or anchors, and screw the brackets home. They should not move at all under hand pressure.
- Load the rings before the finials. Thread the rings onto each rod first. Hold back one ring per rod to sit outside the end bracket, so the outer edge of each curtain stays pulled to the wall.
- Fit the rods. Set the back rod into its bracket seats first, then the front. Secure them as the bracket design requires.
- Fit the finials. Attach one to each rod end.
- Hang the curtains. Hook the back layer on first, then the front.
- Check it works. Draw both layers fully open and fully closed. Rings should run without catching, the rods should not shift in the brackets, and the two layers should pass each other without rubbing. Re-check that the brackets are still tight.
Care
Unlacquered brass needs almost nothing.
- To let it age — dust with a dry, soft cloth. That is all.
- To keep it bright — polish occasionally with a brass polish suited to unlacquered brass, following the polish maker's instructions. Test on a hidden section first.
- Avoid abrasive pads, scouring powders and harsh household chemicals. They scratch the surface permanently.
- After cleaning the window — wipe any splashes off the brass and dry it, so water does not sit on the metal.
- Fingerprints will show on a freshly polished rod and fade into the patina on an aged one.
Do not apply lacquer or clear coat yourself. It traps the surface mid-way through its ageing and tends to fail unevenly.
Frequently asked questions
Is this solid brass or brass plated?
Solid brass throughout. There is no plating, no coating and no base metal underneath.
What does unlacquered mean?
It means the brass has no protective varnish on it. Lacquered brass is sealed under a clear coat to hold its factory shine. Unlacquered brass is left bare, so the metal is exposed to the air and ages naturally.
Will it tarnish or change colour?
Yes, and that is intended. The bright yellow warms within weeks and deepens into golds and browns over months and years. Areas you touch stay brighter than areas you do not. If you want a finish that stays exactly as it arrives, unlacquered brass is not the right choice.
Can I polish it back if I change my mind?
Yes. Brass polish returns the brighter tone at any stage, and the patina then begins again. Nothing about the ageing process is permanent or damaging.
What curtain headings work with this rod?
Any heading that hangs from hooks — pencil pleat, pinch pleat, goblet, and similar. The rings have fixed eyelets rather than clips, so curtains attach with hooks through the eyelet. Rod-pocket and tab-top curtains thread straight onto a rod and are not used with rings.
How do I choose the right length?
Measure the window opening, then add overhang on both sides so the curtains can sit clear of the glass when open. Also check how far the rod needs to project to clear a sill, radiator, shutters or handle. The measuring section above walks through it. We offer 19 lengths from 12" to 96"; if you are between two sizes, message us before ordering.
How many rings will I need?
Use the calculation in the ring section above: the panel's hanging span divided by your chosen spacing, rounded up, plus one — worked out separately for each panel, and doubled because a double rod carries two layers. If your curtains are pinch pleat, follow your curtain maker's pleat count instead.
Are the rings included?
Yes — a set of solid brass rings is included with the rod. The exact number supplied for each length requires confirmation, so please check with us if you need a specific count. Bracket quantity also requires confirmation.
Will it hold heavy curtains?
We have not published a load figure for this rod, so we will not quote one. What we can say is that it is solid brass rather than hollow plated tube, and that with any curtain rod the limiting factor is usually the fixing and the wall rather than the rod. For heavy or full-length curtains, please contact us with your rod length and curtain weight before ordering.
Are custom lengths available?
We stock 19 lengths from 12" to 96". If you need a size outside that range or between two listed sizes, message us before ordering and we will tell you what is possible.
Can I mount this on the ceiling?
Requires confirmation. The brackets shown are wall-mounted. Contact us before ordering if you need a ceiling fixing.
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Specifications
Specifications
FAQ
FAQ
Materials & Care
Materials & Care
Authentic Solid Brass and Copper
Every Kinycraft piece is handcrafted from genuine copper or premium solid brass. We do not use lightweight plated metals or imitation finishes. Our materials are carefully selected for their strength, durability, natural beauty, and ability to develop character over time.
Because our products are handmade, slight variations in texture, hammering, color, and finish are natural. These differences are not defects—they make every piece unique.
Unlacquered Brass
Our unlacquered brass products are made from solid brass without a protective lacquer coating. They normally arrive with a bright, polished appearance and gradually develop a natural patina through exposure to air, moisture, oils, and everyday use.
The finish may become warmer, darker, or more aged over time. This natural transformation is known as a living finish and is part of the authentic character of unlacquered brass.
Customers who prefer the original shiny appearance can regularly polish the brass. Those who appreciate an aged, vintage look can allow the patina to develop naturally.
Copper
Our copper pieces are made from genuine copper and may be offered in polished, hammered, aged, oxidized, or custom patina finishes.
Like unlacquered brass, copper is a living material. Its color may naturally deepen or change over time depending on humidity, handling, water exposure, and the surrounding environment. These variations add warmth and individuality to each handcrafted product.
Daily Cleaning
For regular care:
- Clean the surface with a soft cloth, warm water, and mild soap.
- Rinse away any soap residue with clean water.
- Dry the item immediately with a soft, lint-free cloth.
- Wipe away water spots regularly, especially in hard-water areas.
- Use a soft microfiber cloth to avoid scratching the finish.
Maintaining a Shiny Finish
To preserve or restore a bright polished appearance:
- Use a brass or copper polish suitable for unlacquered metal.
- Apply a small amount using a soft cloth.
- Always test the product on a small, discreet area first.
- Polish gently and follow the product manufacturer’s instructions.
- Remove all remaining polish and buff the surface with a clean cloth.
Frequent polishing is optional. It should only be done when you wish to reduce or remove the natural patina.
Preserving the Natural Patina
To maintain the naturally aged appearance:
- Avoid metal polish and abrasive cleaning products.
- Clean gently using mild soap and water.
- Dry the surface after cleaning.
- Allow the finish to continue changing naturally.
- Avoid excessive rubbing, as this may create brighter areas.
Products to Avoid
Do not use:
- Bleach or chlorine-based cleaners
- Strong chemical cleaning sprays
- Abrasive powders or scouring pads
- Steel wool or hard brushes
- Oven cleaners or aggressive degreasers
- Highly acidic products unless specifically intended for brass or copper
Harsh products may stain, scratch, discolor, or permanently alter the metal finish.
Important Care Notes
Water quality, humidity, fingerprints, cleaning habits, and environmental conditions can affect how quickly brass and copper develop patina. Areas that are frequently touched may change color faster than less-used sections.
For faucets, sinks, showers, and bathroom accessories, drying the surface after use will help reduce mineral deposits and water marks. A soft cloth should be used around engraved, hammered, or detailed areas.
Natural patina, surface variation, and gradual color changes are expected characteristics of genuine unlacquered brass and copper. They are not considered manufacturing defects.
For additional care instructions, finish recommendations, or help selecting the right material for your project, please contact us.
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